Thanks to Mark Twiname
The initial production of German tropical uniforms in late 1940 was a direct result of Mussolini’s ill-conceived entry into the war and opening a front against the British in Egypt in June of that year. Realizing that a stable southern front was essential for its own long term goals Germany began development of tropical field gear and uniforms soon after Italy’s entry into the war. Designed by The Tropical Institute of the School of Medicine at the University of Hamburg, the uniform was a well-thought out product utilizing a hard-wearing cotton drill material that was both durable while retaining the fashionable identity of the German uniform of that time.
The new-pattern field tunic was based logically on the new wool version of the model 1936 tunic, the model 1940 field service tunic, which at this time was planned to supersede the older pattern. Strong, durable cotton drill was used to construct the new tropical tunic’s shell, while reinforcement panels were constructed from a finer-grade material on the tunic’s unlined interior. The scalloped pocket flaps were reinforced with the same material, along with a small pouch pocket on the lower right inner front, used for carrying a field dressing. Two belt support hooks were mounted in the same manner as the new M40 continental tunic, with one at each hip, at waist level. The support hook tab was made from drill, with six eyelets placed vertically for hook adjustment to allow for alignment with one of the three eyelets through the tunic’s shell. Each eyelet was corded with thread to reinforce it. The hooks themselves can be found in painted or raw finish.
The colour of the tunic’s cotton drill varied from a reed green and olive green to shades of olive brown, depending on a manufacturer’s supplies of material at the start of their production run in late 1940. These colour variances had a ‘roll on’ effect later in the tunic’s service life when, after several cleanings, tunics took on faded shades of tan, grey, light olive and bone white, depending on what the jacket had been washed in, and how often.
The four pleated pockets had slight variations in appearance, depending on the manufacturer. Rounded scallops or deep pointed flaps, clipped pocket corners or slightly rounded, depending on the quality of finish produced by each factory. Essentially all items were made within tight specifications. Radical differences in materials or construction found on tunics produced by clothing factories should be viewed with extreme caution by collectors.
The tunic’s front was secured by five 19mm dished pebbled metal buttons, finished in an olive grey paint. After 1943 a dark grey/blue colour can be found on jacket buttons as well. The same buttons were used for the four pockets and to secure both shoulder straps.
Only the two buttons holding the shoulder straps were sewn in place. The other nine were secured by wire ‘S’ rings. These were hidden by a covering panel of material sewn down the inner front of the tunic, while each pocket button’s ‘S’ ring was hidden in a section sewn onto the inside of each pocket front to prevent any internal snagging. The button rings passed through eyelets on the pocket front which were cord reinforced.
The slit cuffs were secured by two pressed paper buttons, allowing a limited range of closure, but allowing the sleeve to be rolled up if required. These were secured by a strip of thinner material with one reinforced buttonhole. The internal cuff was partially reinforced with a panel of the same material. A synthetic button was also used to secure the field dressing pocket.
Basic insignia was applied in the form of the national eagle (Hoheitszeichen) and Litzen (collar tabs) – both radically different in colour to their continental counterparts. Early tropical breast eagles were machine woven in cotton thread of a light blue/grey colour on a mustard/copper coloured base. Later eagles were woven in rayon – a finer thread, producing a flatter looking and smoother detailed insignia.
The traditional German army collar tabs were produced using the same colours, with two thin mustard/copper coloured bars flanking a single thick central strip on the blue/grey base. There was no colour distinction as to arm of service as on continental collar tabs. The application of the Litzen used the same thread as the tunic’s construction and was finished by machine or hand (or both) depending on the manufacturer. The eagle was applied by being placed upside down, facing inwards. It was then straight-machine-stitched horizontally just above the wing top, then flipped over and hand-sewn in place. Some manufacturers hand sewed the eagle entirely. Later-dated tunics will be found with variations of this technique – but replaced eagles on stripped tunics are common on the collectors market and some serious research into these varieties is advised.
Once complete, the tunics were processed by army depots in each Wehrkreis (military administration district). They were marked with numbers indicating size, depot of issue and year of processing. This same information on size was shown on a paper tag loosely stitched to the lower edge of the tunic by the manufacturer. These are read as follows:
41 Neck to Waist
45 Neck/collar size
92 Chest size
70 Length of back
61 Arm length
Wehrkreis depot – B-40 – year of processing.
All measurements were in centimetres. Very usefully, manufacturer’s details were normally found on tunics marked in various places – on the front panel above or
below the depot stamps; stamped between the button eyelet holes; inside the flap covering the front button ‘S’ rings and on the bandage pocket. The ink used tends to be of a black/purple colour, although tones vary greatly.
In some cases the markings have remained clear and strong even on heavily-worn and washed tunics, while on others the stamps have become almost illegible while the material is in only lightly-used condition.
From very early 1943, makers started to employ a code system to baffle allied intelligence. This was the Reichbetriebs Nummer (state manufacturing number). This consisted of a series of numbers in three groups on one line. They were normally placed over the size/depot markings but again, there are variations of placement. To ease production time and material the step was taken to simplify the pockets on tunics by removing the pleat portion completely. The lower pockets still had the ‘bellows’ feature, which was far too useful to remove, while the breast pocket now became a flat panel. The pocket flaps stayed the same – scalloped, and this maintained a smart appearance overall.
The earliest example seen for a 2nd-pattern tropical tunic was dated 1942 – indicating shortages on the home front and the need to save time at production level. In all other respects the production of the basic tunic remained the same as the first pattern, with heavy quality/drill used in the construction with no other short-cuts in manufacturing.
The next logical measure in reducing production time and material also took place in 1942 – the removal of the scalloped pocket flaps in favour of a straight-bottomed pattern. The fundamental tunic remained the same, but the style had now gone to be replaced by a working jacket with less panache. The base tunic cotton drill also became markedly thinner from some manufacturers as old stock was replaced by bolts of economy material at this time.
Heavier-weight drill third-model tunics were still being concurrently produced until stocks ran out. 1942 dated examples are known to exist and clear photographs of third-pattern tunics being worn in Tunisia as early as November 1942 have been published. Due to the shortages in supply by the later part of 1942, insignia as seen in period photos could be a mix of continental shoulder straps and chevrons as well as oberschutze rank ‘pips’ for enlisted men. Greatcoat insignia was used on tunics to cover the supply shortage of the issue cotton patterns. Troops were proud of the unit they belonged to and went to great lengths to wear their appropriate arm-of-service colours. This even went to the extent of field manufacturing shoulder-straps from scrapped uniforms and other appropriate materials. On the other hand, tunics were commonly field upgraded to individual officer’s requirements utilizing wire bullion eagles and litzen. Sewn-in continental shoulder boards were applied when the slip-on variety weren’t available. The major draw-back to sewn in boards was the wear caused to them during washing, which could be a harsh process of using petrol, water already used several times over for other purposes, or even just scrubbing the tunic with sand when there was simply no other option. These simple alterations to field tunics had been seen in North Africa since the very beginning of the German campaigns in 1941.
Later, as the tide turned in favour of the Allies, troops and supplies making the hazardous sea or air voyage from Italy faced daunting odds as the Royal Navy and Airforce made easy work of slow moving freighters and JU52 transports used for the supply runs. Many precious cargoes of clothing, ammunition, spare parts, oil and food still lie at the bottom of the Mediterranean today, along with their brave crews.
1st Pattern Tunic – Description
This particular tunic was found in Taranaki province of the North Island, New Zealand. When found, no shoulder straps were present, and both Totenkopfe (skull insignia) had been cut off (the threads and stitch holes were quite evident). The material is heavy-grade cotton twill which was originally a dark olive colour. Sunlight and washing have faded it to a light gray on the most affected areas, while the inside and recesses have retained some of the original shade of olive. All buttons are original to the tunic and marked ‘KuQ’ (Klein & Quenzer) over ‘40’. Due to a great amount of wear, the front button holes have become separated from their reinforced keyhole stitching. The breast pocket holes show less use and retain their original form. Both litzen are original to the tunic, as is the early cotton-woven eagle, which has retained its colour beautifully. Both skulls have been carefully re applied over the original positions on the lapels.
Further evidence of the use of this tunic by a member of a Panzer unit is found in both bottom bellows pockets having been sewn flat to the tunic’s skirt so as to prevent them catching while entering or exiting vehicle hatches. Also of note is the lower hem which has been turned up and sewn in place, as was the fashion at the time. The continental
Gefreiters chevron has been originally applied by the Panzer crewman himself, as shown by the handfinishing and post-application wear to it. The damage to the right cuff is historic, with no way of knowing its cause. In regard to the markings, only the size stamps are evident. It would appear no depot stamp was placed on this tunic, but it is more likey the stamp has been washed out, and judging by the 1940-dated buttons, is a very early issue piece.
(PHOTOS TO FOLLOW OF ALL DETAILS MENTIONED IN THE TEXT).
2nd-Pattern Tropical Tunic Description
Made of a good heavy grade of cotton drill, this tunic shows a nice amount of issue-wear. This item was manufactured by the firm “Lorenz” of Frankfurt and passed through the issuing depot in 1943. (No Wehrkreis prefix capital is evident, but it is safe to assume it would be F for Frankfurt). This would indicate a mis-stamping. Also note that this tunic’s chest size measurement is missing, which in this case, should be ‘100’. The eagle and litzen are original to the tunic with no evidence of replacement. The eagle is of the thinner machine-woven variety utilising spun rayon. On this jacket, a tropical pattern Gefreiter chevron has been applied with needle and thread – again indicating actual field use.
Two sets of award loops are sewn through the front of the left breast patch pocket. The pleats, which added so much character and style to the first-pattern tunic, have now been replaced on all four pockets by the more easily produced flat panel version, though both lower pockets retain the ability to bellow out. All four pocket flaps carry a gentle scallop, which lifts the plainer appearance slightly.
All the dished metal buttons are painted a light grey/olive and are stamped on the reverse with a capitol ‘M’ inside a diamond. The manufacturer is unknown to the author at this time.
3rd-Pattern Tropical Tunic Description
This tunic passed through the Munich (?) depot in 1943, the manufacturer’s identity now protected by the RB# (Reichbetriebs Nummer) code seen above the size stampings. The olive cotton drill material used to construct the tunic is of a thinner grade than the two previously described patterns. The lining and re-enforcement panels are of a darker olive than the overall jacket, and of a lighter weight material.
The most notable difference from the 1st and 2nd model tunics is the complete lack of scallops on the pocket flaps. These are now straight cut to ease time and materials at production level. This leaves the tunic with a very work-man like appearance.
The national eagle (Hoheitszeichen) and Litzen are original to the tunic, and sewn on using the same thread as used in the jacket’s construction. The eagle has been machine sewn straight across the wing-tops in the usual manner, then flipped down and machine sewn about it’s edge with a straight stitch. The smoother finish of the rayon woven eagle is quite evident.
The Litzen are also completely machine sewn to the collars on this example. Again – variations will still be found in application of the insignia depending on the tunic’s manufacturer.
The belt support straps are made from a course woven material not seen elsewhere in this tunic’s construction. The three corresponding holes in the tunic for the hooks are all machine finished, with no hand stitching at all evident.
The buttons are of the later blue/grey paint colour finish, and are all marked ‘JFS’ (Josef Feix & Sohn) over ‘42’. The synthertic buttons sewn to the cuffs and bandage pocket all retain a rust brown colour in contrast to the washed-out grey examples of the two previously described tunics.
Over-all the tunic displays light wear and fading, except the collar area which shows sweat soiling, which has bleached the material slightly. The cuffs are also worn along the leading edge – another clear indication of field use as opposed to damage caused by years of storage or static display that can now be found on many tunics.
1st Pattern Assault Gun Tunic – Description
Alterations and modifications to personalise tropical tunics, both German and Italian, is another area which photographic research reveals took place withy some regularity. In North Africa, small personalizations such as the up-grading from issue national eagles to wire bullion or woven types for an officer appears to have been quite common, along with the simple addition of the relevant rank shoulder-boards and Litzen. In times of need, captured British and Commonwealth stocks were used when supply depots were over-run, and altered accordingly. These were especially welcome when supplies from home grew short due to Allied interception.
More heavily customized or altered tunics were seen in the Italian campaign, or Southern France, where practicality and fashionable appearance saw field-company or local village tailors manufacturing everything from complete uniforms from stocks of camouflage, to simple modifications of field uniforms.
The tunic shown here has been field modified for a specific individual and purpose. It is a 1st pattern, with both lower pockets completely removed to prevent snagging or catching while working on or accessing a vehicle. In some cases it might be useful to tuck the jacket bottom into the trousers to achieve the same effect. This can be seen in period photographs from North Africa all the way through to Russia.
The internal belt support straps, and field bandage pocket have been removed – a practice also employed by some field officers. To prevent bagginess and snagging while also giving a more ‘fitted’ appearance, an internal draw-string has been added, markedly lower than the belt-hook holes. This small alteration lends weight to the originality of this unorthodox tunic. The waist-line of the man whom this jacket was customized for was obviously lower than the proportions built in at factory level. It would appear that the individual was quite tall, and had the waist tailored accordingly. This drawstring arrangement is found on Italian ‘Sahariana’ pattern tropical tunics – a useful feature to draw in the waist of tunics without needing to wear some form of field belt. It would then seem logical to assume that this Sturmartillerie Leutnant was stationed at some point in Italy, and copied this functional feature.
The issue insignia has been period removed and replaced to the owner’s requirements with a wire woven eagle, Artillerie Luetnant’s shoulder boards, and most strikingly Assault Artillery Totenkopfe on both collars, the man showing great pride in his unit and rank. This officer has modified his working jacket into a unique field tunic. All these alterations have historical precident, most notably the Totenkopfe on the collars, as seen in Greece in 1943 by members of II/Panzer-Regiment 1 on first and second pattern tunics. Though radical due to these alterations, the tunic retains it’s fashionable appearance, while, more importantly, remaining a functional field jacket.